Pruning, drying, location & uses
Few plants are as closely associated with summer, fragrance, and relaxation as lavender. And few are pruned incorrectly so often. Also recommended in this context: Purple Iris Meadow. Also recommended in this context: Pastel Blue Spring Basket with Daffodils & Muscari. Also recommended in this context: Natural Spring Basket Apricot & Blue.
Anyone in Austria who has lavender in the garden or on the balcony knows the problem: in the first year it blooms beautifully, in the second it turns woody, and by the third it looks like a sad broom. The reason is almost always the same — it wasn’t pruned at all, or it was pruned incorrectly.
Here you’ll learn how to care for lavender properly, which varieties are winter-hardy in Austria, and how to dry it the right way so it keeps its fragrance.
Lavender at a glance
Botanical name: Lavandula
Origin: Mediterranean region
Species: around 30, of which 3–4 are relevant in Austria
Hardy: Lavandula angustifolia (down to –15°C)
Flowering period: June – August
Location: full sun, well-draining soil
Uses: decoration, fragrance, cooking, cosmetics
Difficulty: easy (if pruned correctly)
Lavender varieties for Austria
Not every lavender survives the Austrian winter. The Provence varieties you admire on holiday often die in Vienna with the first frost. But for our climate, there are varieties that thrive without any trouble.
Lavandula angustifolia (true lavender) is the only species that is reliably hardy through winter in Austria. Varieties such as 'Hidcote Blue', 'Munstead' or 'Dwarf Blue' can withstand temperatures down to –15°C and bloom dependably every year. They grow 30–60 cm tall and have the most intense fragrance.
Lavandula x intermedia (lavandin) is a hybrid that grows larger (up to 80 cm) and produces more flowers. In the milder parts of Vienna, it survives the winter, but in higher areas of Lower Austria, it can be touch and go. 'Grosso' and 'Phenomenal' are the toughest varieties.
Lavandula stoechas (French lavender) with its distinctive “rabbit ears” on the flower is unfortunately not winter-hardy and must be kept frost-free over winter — better suited to a pot on the balcony.
Lavender location
Lavender comes from the Mediterranean and wants exactly that: full sun, poor soil, good drainage. That is the opposite of what most Austrian garden soils offer — heavy, clay-rich, nutrient-rich.
If you have heavy soil, mix in sand or gravel. Lavender hates wet feet — waterlogging is the most common reason it dies. It feels most at home against a south-facing wall, in front of a stone wall, or in a raised bed with free-draining soil.
Tip: Lavender in a pot absolutely needs a drainage hole and a drainage layer made of expanded clay. Regular flower potting soil is too rich in nutrients — it is better to mix herb soil with sand.
Pruning lavender — the most important care step
Pruning lavender is where most mistakes happen. The rule is simple, but you need to know it:
First cut (after flowering, July/August): As soon as the flowers have faded, cut the whole plant back by one third. Remove the faded stems and a little of the green foliage as well. Do not cut into the old wood — lavender will not regrow from it.
Second cut (spring, March/April): Lightly trim it back into shape again, without cutting into the wood. This cut prevents the plant from becoming bare at the base.
Important: Never cut into the old, brown wood. Lavender does not regrow from woody parts. If you do, you will end up with a bare plant that will not recover.
Drying lavender
Drying lavender is wonderfully simple — and dried lavender keeps its fragrance for months. The best time to harvest it is when the flowers are just starting to open, but are not fully open yet. That is when the oil content is at its highest.
Tie small bundles (8–10 stems) together with kitchen twine and hang them upside down in a dry, airy place — not in direct sunlight, or the colors will fade. After two to three weeks, the lavender will be dry and can be used in sachets, vases, or as decoration.
Lavender in the kitchen
In Provence, lavender is used as a seasoning — in Austria, hardly anyone dares to try it. Yet it pairs beautifully with goat cheese, honey, chocolate, and even meat dishes. Important: only use Lavandula angustifolia; other varieties taste soapy. And use it sparingly — half a teaspoon of blossoms is enough for an entire dish.
Lavender and bees
Lavender is one of the very best bee plants there is. During flowering season, a lavender bush hums like a beehive. If you want to do something good for bees and butterflies, plant lavender — it’s one of the simplest and most effective steps you can take.
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Frequently asked questions about lavender
Lavandula angustifolia (true lavender) is hardy down to –15°C and gets through the Austrian winter without any trouble. French lavender (L. stoechas) is not hardy and must be overwintered in a frost-free place.
Twice a year: cut back by one third after flowering (July/August), and lightly shape it in spring (March/April). Never cut into old wood.
Lavender oil has a certain repellent effect on mosquitoes, but a plant on the balcony alone is not enough to keep them away. Lavender oil on the skin works better than the plant itself.
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